







Then we kissie-face and make up!


Sunday was the day on which everything became alright again. I knew before I left home that I wouldn't be nearly 100% on the day, but I had already decided that simply getting through a ride to Binna Burra and back would be good enough. I managed to climb the mountain in reasonable shape, cresting the 7km ascent to Lower Beechmont in reasonable time after pedalling on guts alone for virtually the entire duration. It was here, taking in the sweeping views over Hinze Dam, Springbrook and the surrounding ranges, that I knew I was back. Now all that mattered was finishing the ride with the accompanying inspiration of amazing views on both sides of the road.
At the summit of Mt Roberts I bumped into an old friend from Brisbane who had ridden up a little earlier. It's amazing how a chat about an upcoming ride (the Wonders of Glorious Mee on Saturday) can inspire a tired body to continue. On the way home I opted for the detour along the western spur of the Beechmont Range, with it's views over the coomera gorge. By now it was getting hot, and I was starting to tire, but for once none of that mattered. All that mattered is that I was able to climb again, and the feeling was wonderful.
I like everything that has to do with this culture of bike I whirl around in.
Not only are bikes fun to ride, they're good for health and they're good for transportation.
And then there's the bike art and bikes that are art pieces and art that is for bikes and bikes that are art sculptures and antique art pieces. And my dad Art who taught me how to ride a bike and his dad Art who taught him how to ride a bike.
And then there's the friend part. You gravitate towards friends who ride bikes. You make friends with people who race bikes. You hang out with families who ride bikes. Your kids become friends with the kids of the friends you have who ride bikes because you hang out all day at the races on Sundays all fall and winter and they all run around in kid packs.
And bike moms are fun. They can ride in the middle of the day with me and then there are the other bike ladies who like to ride long and talk about everything under the sun. It's bike therapy.
And then there's the dirt trails in the trees that swoop and whirl and make you feel like you're dancing with the trees. And the days when you get to ride with your husband and you get along perfectly. And the nights when you sneak around on the trails on the bike and eat chips and drink beer.
And I like the way you see so many other riders out on the road on a day like an easter sunday when there's no racing so everyone's out riding and no one's really out driving and you stop and say hi to everyone you know.
And I like bike blogs where you get to know other bike blog people and then when you meet them for the first time at a race or a ride or gold sprints, you say oh yeah, I know you and you're already sorta friends.
And bike races are fun, especially cyclocross, where everyone cheers for everyone.
But even circuit races and crits are fun to be at - even when you have to course marshall at the DHL driveway and help maneuver a 16 wheeler across the the circuit course while a pit bull is running down the middle of the course towards you because its owner is driving along on the other side of the cones and says he's out taking the dog for a walk by letting him run down the street while he drives a long and then you yell at him to get the dog and he decides to pull a u-turn across the course and you know you only have about 2 minutes to get them all off the course before 75 racers come zooming down the hill.
And then the lady in the SUV bmw pulls a u-turn. And after you get her all situated you see that your cheetos have spilled all over the road.
And even on days when you're feeling too crappy to do the dishes or go to work or get up off the couch because you feel so achy because you think you might be getting sick, you can muster up just enough energy to go for a really slow and spinny road ride and feel like crap still, but when you get back you do feel a little better and happier, kind of.
But especially the rides along the ridge when it's spring and you can smell the jasmine and the roses and the bbq along the way.
And roller racing is fun even though the 20 seconds you raced felt more like 20 minutes and it gives you the same feeling as if someone punched you in the gut. But it was worth it just to see almost naked men on stage in spotlights, racing bikes.
And riding any bike behind Morgan is nice because he has a nice butt.
Bikes are fun.
On the crux of Paciencia, Eiger north face. All photos thanks to the talentedAlexandre Buisse
June and July were some of the most busy and challenging days of my life, none of which involved any climbing. The death of my father Norman was not a good time. Not wishing to talk about it much more on this, my climbing blog, all I should say is that at least I was able time to spend time with him first.
There wasn’t much time before other life events called for action. Claire, Freida and I moved house. Just ‘round the corner’ to Roybridge. We now have a great base for Freida growing up and it was a pleasure to put my back into working on it and preparing it for my family. Each day, I got up early, worked until the wee small hours and repeat…
So my planned trip to the alps with Calum Muskett crept up on me. I’d done next to no climbing for several weeks with everything that had gone on. A few fingerboard sessions, a couple of TCA sessions, that’s it. I could still one arm a first joint edge. But endurance was nil.
Here mate, is that the Eiger?
When I started to drive south from the highlands, the extent of the problem with this started to dawn on me, since our discussed objectives were basically a list of the hardest routes in the alps. Top of the list was Paciencia, the hardest route on the north face of the Eiger. First freed in by Ueli Steck and then repeated just once by David Lama in . Reading Lama’s blog made me wince. He rated it one of the hardest routes in the alps and said he was utterly exhausted by the time he reached the top. Although the pitch grades don’t too bad; 6b, 6a, 6a+, 7c, 7c, 7a, 8a, 7a+, 6b+, 6a+, 6a+, 7c, 7c+, 7b, 7a, 6a, 7a+, 7c, 7a, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6c+ Many of the pitches are tad on the sandbag side. For instance, one of the 6b+s we thought translated to E4 6b.
On paper it was completely ridiculous for me to go near it. However, predictably, after meeting Calum in Chamonix we decided in about 2 minutes we’d head straight to the Eiger for the first route. It would also be my first alpine route.
Another great 7c pitch, full of north face atmosphere
A day later we were scrambling up the classic 1938 route to the foot of Paciencia. It was misty, damp and cold and after a drippy bivi I woke up ready to fail. Thankfully, our intention was just to have a recce and get our bearings on the Eiger. That day we hung about on the first few 7c and 8a pitches and I tried to give myself as big a workout as possible. I achieved that goal with ease.
I wasn’t sure about going back up. Perhaps it would be better to do a few easier routes first? I couldn’t think of a good way to even suggest that to Calum, who is already an accomplished alpinist, just a couple of years younger than me at 19. So we went back up, taking the photographer Alexandre Buisse with us for the first day. After soloing back up the 38 route in the afternoon we bagged the first few 7c pitches before dark and settled into our bivi, ready to go for the 8a in the morning. The morning however, was mostly spent melting snow to fuel some serious tea drinking on our ledge. Once we got started, we both dispatched the brilliant 8a pitch with much enjoyment. What an amazing pitch in spectacular surroundings.
Calum on the rather thin first 7c pitch
Our clear objective was for both of us to free the entire route with no falls, whether leading or seconding. All of the many 7b and 7c pitches were very hard to onsight, as we already knew from reading David Lama’s account. So we decided to give ourselves three full days to climb to the top since we would need the extra time for both of us to succeed on each of the 23 pitches. When we reached the second bivi below the Czech Pillar, we spent the following day both climbing the hard pitches that followed, before descending for one more night on the ledge. Both of us were tired that day, and I almost fell right at the end of a 7c+ pitch, where I knew Lama had also fallen. I knew I didn’t have the energy for another go within the hour, so I just held on like my life depended on it when a foothold broke 4 moves from the belay ledge. While Calum worked on the pitch, a helicopter appeared, hovering close by. The door opened and a long lens popped out and took some pictures of us. I thought to myself, that doesn’t happen in Scotland.
8a, or more tea?
We rose at 6am the next morning both feeling rather better than anticipated. Just as well, since the first task was to jung and haul the bag back to our highpoint before commencing the final 8 pitches, including one more of those nasty 7cs right near the top. We both climbed strongly on that pitch and we carried on that momentum all the way to the end, pulling into sunshine at 6pm on the top. The crux was yet to come for me however. I’d had blisters on my toes from wearing boots that didn’t fit my feet on the recce day. Nearly 4 days in my rockshoes had made them considerably worse. The walk back down to Grindelwald was a teeth gritter. Of course, now I’m sitting in a cafe the next day, everything feels better.
I learned a lot some new beta on big walling tactics from Calum, and was certainly inspired by his confidence, backed up with skill and problem solving ability. He took the route very much in his stride, as I’m sure he will many more harder routes. Thanks to Ueli Steck and Stefan Siegrist for opening the route. It must’ve taken a lot of effort.
So, where’s my boulder mat...